Star Dune (8,617′), Great Sand Dunes N.P.

by Mike Langenkamp | May 6, 2023 | Difficult Hikes, Dog Friendly, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

Star Dune (8,617′), Great Sand Dunes N.P.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado is home to the tallest sand dunes in North America, reaching heights of up to 750 feet at Star Dune. Some interesting facts about Star Dune:

1. The Star Dune is the tallest dune in the park, standing at a height of 755 feet. It is also one of the tallest sand dunes in the world.

2. The shape of the Star Dune is unique, with arms radiating out from the center like a star. This shape is caused by the wind patterns in the area, which come from different directions at different times.

3. The Star Dune is constantly changing shape due to the wind. It can move up to 50 feet per year, and its arms can grow or shrink depending on the wind direction.

4. The sand that makes up the Star Dune is made of quartz and feldspar, and was brought to the area by the Rio Grande River and its tributaries.

5. The Star Dune is not the only dune in the park with a unique shape. High Dune, for example, has a distinctive crescent shape, while the dunes in the northeast section of the park have a “starburst” pattern.

6. Climbing the Star Dune is a popular activity for visitors to the park. It can be a challenging climb, however, as the sand is constantly shifting and can make footing difficult. Visitors are encouraged to wear appropriate footwear and to bring plenty of water.

7. The Great Sand Dunes National Park is also home to a variety of plant and animal species, including several that are found nowhere else in the world. Some of these include the Great Sand Dunes tiger beetle, the Piñon mouse, and the sandhill crane.

8. The park is also an important archaeological site, with evidence of human habitation dating back over 11,000 years. The Ute and Apache people were among the first to live in the area.

Another interesting natural feature is Zapata Falls, located just outside the park.

Trail Stats

Star Dune

Trailhead: Dunes Trailhead
Round trip: 7 miles (11.3 km)
Elevation: 7,856′- 8,617′ (2,395 m – 2,627 m)
County: Alamosa
National Park: The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

Trail Pictures

Great Sand Dunes NP in the early morning

Medano Creek flowing at the base of the sand dunes.

Shade from clouds create interesting patterns on the dunes

Sunrise in the valley

Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in the San Luis Valley of Colorado, USA and covers an area of over 30 square miles.

The sand dunes are constantly changing shape due to wind and weather patterns. They can shift up to 50 feet in just one year.

There are no trails through the dunes as the sand would erase them in a matter of hours.

The summit of Star Dune (8,617′) ahead.

The final push to the summit was very steep

From the summit there are 360 degree views of the park

Most of the park is deserted, with most of the activity taking place near the Medano creek parking lots.

Medano Creek cutting through the dunes

GPX with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

Average round trip hiking time for High Dune is 6 hours over 7 miles (11.3 km). There is no trail. Popular hiking applications are often inaccurate. Plan to take as much as 9 hours to hike roundtrip as hiking on loose sand is difficult.

The dune now measures 741 feet (225 m) from base to summit. While it can be hiked from the summit of High Dune on First Ridge, it’s more direct, and less up and down, to access it via its base along the Medano Creek bed. From the Dunes Parking Lot, hike about 2 miles (3.2 km) south down the Medano Creek bed until the massive pyramid-shaped Star Dune comes into view. Follow a ridge to its summit.

Trailhead Directions

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Music Pass (11,450′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Mike Langenkamp | Aug 8, 2021 | Dog Friendly, Moderate Hikes, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

Music Pass (11,450′), Sangre de Cristo Range

Music Pass is a east/west pass across the southern Sangre de Cristo range connecting the Wet Valley in the east with the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve on the western side. The road gets progressively worse as you near the trailhead, so without a high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicle, you should park at the Grape Creek Trailhead and hike the last 2.5 miles to the Music Pass trailhead. The trail stats assume that you are beginning your hike at the Music Pass Trailhead.

Reaching the pass, you have a stunning views of the Upper Sand Creek basin that includes 13ers Marble Mountain, Milwaukee Peak, Music Mountain, and Tijeras Peak.

The Sangre de Cristo range has a wide range of remote and rugged hikes, such as Lily Lake, South Colony Lakes, and Humboldt Peak .

Trail Stats

Music Pass

Trailhead: Music Pass
Round trip: 3 miles / 4.8 km
Elevation: 10,730′ – 11,450′ / 3490 m
County: Huerfano
Wilderness: Sangre de Cristo
National Park: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

Trail Pictures

The road becomes more difficult after the Grape Creek TH

Near the trailhead

The trail used to be open to vehicles decades ago

First mile of the trail is in dense forest

The trail alternates between steep and level areas

Upper Sand Creek basin

Easy to follow trail from the trailhead

Inviting meadows about a mile into the hike

Once on the pass head north up a small hill for incredible views.

Wildflowers in full bloom

Reaching Music Pass from the east

Marble Mountain (13,266′) to the north of Music Pass

View of Music Pass from the north

Music Pass (11,450′)

View south towards Blueberry Peak

Every year it becomes more difficult to plan hikes around the smoke from fires to the west

View of the western side of the valley

Looking north from the pass

View northeasterly from the pass

View to the east of the Wet Valley shrouded in smoke

Views to the west of 13rs Milwaukee Mountain and Music Peak

Music Pass and the Sangre de Cristo wilderness boundary

Entering the Great Sand Dunes National Preserve

An abundance of mushrooms along the trail.

Nearing Music Pass from the east

CR 119 leaving Music Pass Rd

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

From the parking area at the end of Music Pass Road the trail immediately enters a dense conifer forest as it begins climbing toward the pass. Initially you won’t see much but trees, but after about a mile the forest starts to become more open, giving you some great views of the Wet Mountain Valley on the east side of the Sangre de Cristo Range.

Finally, just before reaching the pass you will pass a sign indicating that you are entering the Great Sand Dunes National Preserve, an extension of the Great Sand Dunes National Park on the western side of the range. This point also marks the eastern boundary of the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness Area.

Trailhead Directions

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Lily Lake (12,385′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Mike Langenkamp | Jun 12, 2021 | Dog Friendly, Moderate Hikes, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

Lily Lake (12,385′), Sangre de Cristo Range

This trail is one of the more beautiful in the state with lots of bang for your buck. The trail starts out at 10,400 feet, hiking in an beautiful valley surrounded by huge mountain scenery, and is virtually flat. So if you don’t want to make the climb up to Lilly Lake you still have amazing views and really great creek fishing with lots of good camping options on the valley floor.

If you make the hike up, you can see Mt. Lindsey, Mt. Blanca, Mt. Ellingwood, and the Iron Nipple from Lilly Lake. From the Valley you can see all but Lindsey. Lilly Lake offers amazing views, an alpine environment just above treeline.

The Sangre de Cristo range has a wide range of remote and rugged hikes, such as Music Pass, South Colony Lakes, and Humboldt Peak .

Trail Stats

Lily Lake

Trailhead: Lily Lake TH #1308
Round trip: 7.5 miles / 12 km
Elevation: 10,400′ – 12,385′ / 3,170 m – 3,775 m
County: Huerfano
Wilderness: Sangre de Cristo

Trail Pictures

Mid-morning near the trailhead

Blanca Peak (14,345′) in the far right distance

Meadow near the trailhead

Rocky trail but well defined

Snowmelt everywhere creating small waterfalls

Mt Lindsey (14,042′) right of center

Last push to Lily Lake

Lily Lake on top of the hill ahead

Incredible scenery along the trail

Snow quickly melting mid-June

Ellingwood Point (14,042′) to the left of the lake

The view at treeline

Shallow snow drifts along the trail

Turning west towards the lake

Lots of water crossings along the trail

One of many waterfalls

Spring snowmelt along the trail

Beautiful scenery the entire way

View south along the trail

Avalanche area along the trail

The trail follows Huerfano creek

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

From the trailhead, follow clear signs to the Lily Lake Trail (there are no other trails at this TH). Head south and walk through a large meadow. From here, you can see the Blanca Massif straight ahead, with the Iron Nipple (13er) across the basin to its left. Hike one mile on mostly flat, clear terrain before coming to a trail junction with a sign for Lily Lake. Stay right (left will take you up Mt. Lindsey).

Continue up through the forest on excellent trail. You’ll continue to gain little elevation – just 1,500 ft over almost 3 miles from this point on. For most of the hike, Huerfano River will be on your left. At about 3 miles from the trailhead, at 11,600 ft, cross it and come to a large clearing with some boulders ahead and to your right. Loop up and back to your right, dipping briefly back into the forest. Just before the lake you come to a headwall just below the lake. Continue up and reach the lake at around 12,385 ft.

Trailhead Directions

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Humboldt Peak (14,064′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Mike Langenkamp | Sep 5, 2020 | 14er's, Difficult Hikes, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

Humboldt Peak (14,064′), Sangre de Cristo Range

Humboldt Peak is part of the Crestones in the rugged Sangre de Cristo mountain range. The Crestones are a cluster of 14,000′ peaks comprising Crestone Peak, Crestone Needle, Kit Carson Peak, Challenger Point, Humboldt Peak, and Columbia Point. Humboldt Peak is the least difficult hike (difficult Class 2). The rest of the Crestone Group is Class 3, 4, and 5 climbing.

As the trail winds up Humboldt Peak you pass the South Colony Lakes, the most popular back country camping site in the Sangre de Cristo Range.

Trail Stats

Humboldt Peak

Trailhead: Upper South Colony Lakes
Round trip: 11 miles / 17.7 km
Elevation: 9,816′ – 14,064′ / 2,992m – 4,287m
County: Saguache
Agency: U.S. Forest Service
Nat’l Forest: San Isabel

Trail Pictures

Almost sunrise with smoke to the east

Big Horn Sheep (center) next to campground

The trail ends leaving a scramble to the summit

Lower South Colony Lake

A Pika, seen on most high mountain peaks

Looking north along the Sangre de Cristo range

Beautiful views of the Crestone’s from the trail

Looking south along the Sangre de Cristo range

The Crestone’s and the South Colony Lakes

Valley with the North Colony Lakes

Looking back at the ridge during the scramble to the top

Columbia and Challenger, two 14ers) to the left (near center)

Crestone Needle (left) and Crestone Peak (right), two more 14ers

Massive peaks

The false summit ahead

View of Colony Baldy and the North Colony Lakes

Humboldt Peak ahead, but still not the summit

Great views from the trail once above timberline

Upper and Lower South Colony Lakes

Nearing the ridge

Heading up to the ridge, lots of elevation gain

Upper South Colony Lake

View of Crestone Needle from the Lake

The trail travels near the upper South Colony Lake

3 days before the first snow of the season

Humboldt Peak 14,064′

Trail through the heavy forest

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

The trail climbs the peak from the South Colony Lakes basin, accessed from the east side of the range. This basin is a popular site that is also the base for most climbs of Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle. You start the hike on a very rugged four-wheel drive road that was closed in 2009 as it follows the South Colony drainage.

Once near the lakes there will be Forest Service signs providing information on the area. Going NW (Humboldt Peak cutoff trail) at the junction, takes you to the Upper South Colony Lake.

The trail climbs steeply to the ridge from the upper lake. Once on the ridge stay to the center for the safest scramble to the summit. The northern side is treacherous with a steep drop for most of the remaining route.

Once on the false summit, head to the northeast to the true summit along large talus.

Trailhead Directions

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Hayden Pass (10,709′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Dorann Langenkamp | May 23, 2020 | Dog Friendly, Moderate 4x4, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

Hayden Pass (10,709′), Sangre de Cristo Range

Hayden Pass road crosses the Sangre de Cristo Mountains between Villa Grove in the west, and Coaldale to the east. The road is most challenging and scenic when started from Villa Grove, on the southwest side. With grades up to 20%, great views of the San Luis valley below can be seen.

This is one of only two vehicle passes over the Sangre de Cristo range. The other vehicle pass being Medano Pass, on the southern tip of the range. This pass travels through the Great Sand Dunes National Park.

Trail Stats

Hayden Pass

Trail: Forest Road 6 Coaldale to the east or Villa Grove on the west
One-Way: 16 miles / 26 km
Elevation: 7,986′ – 10,709′ / 2,434 m – 3,264 m
County: Saguache
Agency: U.S. Forest Service
Nat’l Forest: San Isabel

Trail Pictures

The road is narrow but better than the west side

Heading down the eastern side of the pass

Hayden Pass 10,709′

The trail entered thick forests as it climbed to the pass

View north

The road conditions deteriorated at this point and required 4x4

The road conditions deteriorated at this point and required 4×4

View back west of the road

View of the San Luis Valley

The road is rocky but fairly easy at this point

The Sangre de Cristo Range stretching south

Looking back west shortly after the trail starts climbing

Hayden Pass Road near Villa Grove on the west side

The scar from the Hayden fire on the east side

The mountain drops away providing great views

A patch of snow over the road created a barrier

Thanks to local Matthew Celommi, who was riding his dirt bike, and offered to help

In serious jeopardy of having the driver side back wheel slide into the ravine. Time to winch.

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Route Directions

Start by accessing Hayden Pass RD (FR 6) from Coaldale on the east side of the Sangre de Cristo mountains or from Villa Grove on the west side.

The pass is more difficult if started on the west side (Villa Grove) because you are climbing on a very rocky trail.

Hayden Pass summit is a large flat area after a continuous climb. The views from the road here are blocked by thick forest.

The road on the east side of the pass is better maintained and not as rocky.

Trailhead Directions

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West Spanish Peak (13,625′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Mike Langenkamp | Jul 28, 2018 | Difficult Hikes, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

West Spanish Peak (13,625′), Sangre de Cristo Range

West Spanish Peak (13,625′) and East Spanish Peak (12,684′) have world class geological features that made the two peaks a National Natural Landmark in 1976 and designated as a Wilderness Area in 2000. The peaks rise 6,000 ft from the edge of the eastern plains, and were used as a navigation aid for centuries for people heading west.

The Spanish Peaks are world class examples of “stocks” and “dikes”. Stocks are large masses of igneous (molten) rock which forced their way into seams of the sedimentary rock which eroded more quickly over time. East Peak is a nearly circular stock about 5.5 miles long by 3 miles wide while West Peak is a stock about 2.75 miles long by 1.75 miles wide.

The other structures, hundreds of dikes which radiate out from the two mountains, were formed in the same way, but instead of a large pool of molten rock, the magma filled cracks in the soft sedimentary layer. Erosion wore away the softer sedimentary rock leaving dikes (walls) of granite rock up to 100′ high, 100′ wide, and 14 miles long. This scenic combination of two stocks (West Spanish Peak and East Spanish Peak) and hundreds of unique dikes is second to none with it’s size, diversity and beauty.

While in the area, just a short drive west on Hwy 160, is another geological wonder, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Zapata Falls, which lies just outside the park, is also a favorite.

Trail Stats

West Spanish Peak

Trailhead: West Peak Trail (Cordova Pass)
Round trip: 7.5 miles / 12 km
Elevation: 11,276′ -13,625′ / 3,437 m – 4,153 m
County: Las Animas
Agency: U.S. Forest Service
Nat’l Forest: San Isabel
Nat’l Wilderness: Spanish Peaks

Trail Pictures

View along the upper trail

The trail flattens out near the summit

View of East Spanish Peak

Heading back in the smoke filled air

View of the dikes radiating out from the summit

The summit in the distance

The final push to the summit over heavy talus

View down the steepest section of the trail

Heading up the steep slope

The view back

Large talus fields along the upper portion of the mountain

West Spanish Peak (13,625′) summit

View of a dike from the summit

Dikes can be up to 14 miles long, 100′ tall, and 100′ wide

A section of dikes with less erosion around them

Large cairn just above treeline

Through a meadow and into the forest

View of West Spanish Peak (13,265′)

The view near treeline

The peak in the distance

View to the west

The trail after Vista Point

Smoke from wildfires creates an eerie sunrise

Early morning on the trail

The Spanish Peaks are designated as National Natural Landmarks

The first mile of the trail is very well maintained

Trail register

West Spanish Peak trailhead

Dike radiating out from West Spanish Peak

Dike near La Veta

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Weather

Trail Directions

The trail is fairly level as it meanders through forests and meadows for about 2 miles (3.2 km) to treeline. At treeline there is a massive cairn signaling the beginning of the steep section of the trail. There is a rough path on talus (scree) up the southwest ridge of the peak for the 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of steep climbing. When in doubt stay to the left and close to the ridge, the climbing is on more solid footing.

Gaining the false summit, the actual summit comes into view, not far away and on much more even terrain. There is a cairn and large branch on the summit.

Trailhead Directions

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South Colony Lakes (12,000′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Mike Langenkamp | Dec 31, 2017 | Dog Friendly, Moderate Hikes, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

South Colony Lakes (12,000′), Sangre de Cristo Range

The South Colony Basin lies in the heart of southern Colorado’s Sangre de Cristo Range, home of the South Colony Lakes. Surrounded by Crestone Needle (14,197′), Humboldt Peak (14,064′), and Broken Hand Peak (13,573′), the basin is one of the most beautiful alpine settings in the Southern Rockies.

It was once possible to drive a vehicle to within a half-mile of the lakes, where most climbers set up a camp. Today, low-clearance vehicles park at the lower trailhead and walk 2.75 miles up the road to the upper trailhead. It’s another 2.5 miles from there along the closed road to the old trailhead, where the trail heads into the basin.

Trail Stats

South Colony Lakes

Trailhead: Upper South Colony Lakes
Round trip: 9.2 miles / 14.8 km
Elevation: 9,816′ – 12,123′ / 2,992m – 3,695m
County: Saguache
Agency: U.S. Forest Service
Nat’l Forest: San Isabel

Trail Pictures

South Colony Lakes upper trailhead

View of the South Colony Lakes valley

Humboldt Peak

Icy all the way down

Looking back east at Marble Mountain (13,266′)

View of Humboldt Peak

Road leaving the upper trailhead

South Colony Lakes upper trailhead

Frozen trail

Crestone Needle

Lower South Colony Lake

Upper South Colony Lake

Trail from upper South Colony Lake to Humboldt Peak

View of Upper South Colony Lake with Crestone Needle (14,197′) in the middle, behind and to the right is Crestone Peak (14,294′) – the second highest in the Sangre de Cristo mountain range

Trail to upper South Colony Lake

Crestone Needle

Frozen all the way to the lakes

Humboldt Peak to the north

Broken Hand Peak (13,573′) and Crestone Needle (14,197′)

View of Broken Hand Peak

Sunrise over the Crestones

Trail junction

The old upper trailhead, now permanently closed

Crestone Needle

Panorama of Broken Hand Peak and Crestone Needle

Harsh environment

Ice road hiker

Panorama of lower South Colony Lake

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

The trail follows the permanently closed old 4×4 road. At about 2.6 miles from the upper trailhead you reach a trail junction and turn right, leaving the road and continuing west along a single track trail. After a mile on this trail, you reach tree line and continue through willows to the north of the creek and Lower South Colony Lake. Follow the trail northwest up the hillside above to the upper lake and take in the views.

Trailhead Directions

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High Dune (8,700′), Great Sand Dunes N.P.

by Mike Langenkamp | Dec 31, 2015 | Dog Friendly, Moderate Hikes, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

High Dune (8,700′), Great Sand Dunes N.P.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve contains the tallest sand dunes in North America, rising about 750 feet (230 m) from the floor of the San Luis Valley at the western base of the Sangre de Cristo Range. The dunes cover about 19,000 acres (7,700 ha).

Researchers estimate that the dunes started forming less than 440,000 years ago, which is recent in geological times. A Visitor Guide by the park provides plenty of ideas for activities while in this unique area.

High Dune at 8,700′ is the highest dune in elevation at the park, but the tallest dune from base to summit is Star Dune. Rising about 750′ from the valley floor, it is the tallest sand dune in North America.

While in the area, Zapata Falls lies just outside the park and is worth the small excursion.

Trail Stats

The Great Sand Dunes National Park

Trailhead: High Dune
Round trip: 2.3 miles / 3.8 km
Elevation: 8,175′ – 8,700′ / 2,492 m – 2,652 m
County: Saguache
Agency: National Park Service
Nat’l Park: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

Trail Pictures

Hiking up along the ridgeline

The Great Sand Dunes National Park from a distance

The dunes from a distance

Heading back

Eerie landscape

Looking east

Frozen crust

View towards Alamosa

A cold winter morning

View of Star Dune

My tracks to the top

View from the summit

Summit of High Dune

View of the Sange de Cristo Mountain Range

Hiking up along the ridgeline

Hiking up High Dune

First rays of sunlight

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve entrance

sand dunes

GPS Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

Medano Creek is within a 100 feet of the parking lot and is a popular destination because it has the characteristics of an ocean beach in the spring. Cross the shallow creek and continue toward the dunes.

The first part of the hike is easy because it travels across flat, thick sand. The hike quickly transitions from an easy beach walk to a vertically challenging dune climb as the angle increases. Walking up along the ridges provided the path of least resistance.

Trailhead Directions

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Zapata Falls (9,250′), Sangre de Cristo Range

by Mike Langenkamp | Dec 31, 2015 | Dog Friendly, Easy Hikes, Rocky Mountains, Sangre de Cristo Range, Trip Reports

Zapata Falls (9,250′), Sangre de Cristo Range

This popular short hike to Zapata Falls is located 3 miles south of the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, off of Highway 150. Simply driving to the trailhead provides an excellent view of the entire dune field and San Luis Valley. Drive (east) onto a rough dirt road marked by a large sign, and drive 3.5 miles to the trailhead. To view the falls, hike 1/2 mile, and wade into a crevasse where the 30 ft. high falls cascade onto a ledge. Even in winter, water can still be heard flowing deep underneath the ice.

Next door at the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, some of the highest elevation sand dunes in North America, including High Dune and Star Dune can be found.

Trail Stats

Zapata Falls

Trailhead: Zapata Falls
Round trip: 1 mile / 1.6 km
Elevation: 9,035′ – 9,250′ / 2,754 m – 2,819 m
County: Saguache
Agency: BLM
Nat’l Forest: Rio Grande

Trail Pictures

Zapata Falls trail

Looking up the frozen falls you can hear water still running underneath

Zapata Falls – 30 ft drop

View into the entrance

Zapata Falls entrance

Walking over frozen run-off with microspikes

Trail junction near the falls

Short trail to the waterfall

May 2018 Zapata Falls

Leaving the cave entrance

View of the Great Sand Dunes from Zapata Falls trail

Water just below the falls

On a ledge below the 30 ft Zapata Falls

Zapata Falls exit

Entrance to the falls center left

Zapata Falls turnoff near the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

30 ft tall Zapata Falls

30′ Zapata Falls

The falls to scale

Zapata Falls exit

Zapata Falls May 2018

GPX Route with Elevation

Video Tour

Trail Directions

From the Great Sand Dunes Visitor Center, drive south about 8 miles, then turn left (east) onto a dirt road. Drive the remaining 3.5 miles to the trailhead.

To view the falls, hike about 1/2 mile, cross the creek, then scramble up the rocks and stream into a crevasse where the 30 ft. high falls cascade down.

Trailhead Directions

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